A Guide to Hvar

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Did you catch my Weekend in Split post a couple of weeks ago? In it I introduced you to the first stop on my little Croatian tour last October and mentioned that the next visit was to Hvar, my favourite of our three destinations. Hvar is a tiny little Croatian island and we got so lucky with the weather that we just had the best time ever. Thinking about it makes me want to go back right now, in fact my boyfriend declared he wanted to move there and run a boat for hire place. Looking out at the snow from my window, I’m actually quite tempted…

Where we stayed…

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We definitely nailed the hotel pick in Hvar. There are two main sister hotels, Hotel Amfora Grand Beach Resort and Hotel Adriana. The first is big, loud and ready for a party. So we went for the second and didn’t regret it for a minute. It is a tiny bit more expensive but much smaller and more boutique. There isn’t an outdoor pool and to be honest the indoor one was way too cold for us, but that didn’t seem to matter one bit. It sits right on the harbour and the views are just beautiful. There’s also an amazing rooftop bar that we spent a lot of time in – especially as they kept bringing us free crisps! We read up there whilst sunbathing but also had a few amazing cocktails looking out at the twinkly lights of the rest of the harbour. I can’t forget the breakfast too – it was the best hotel breakfast ever with everything you can possibly imagine laid out on the buffet and the best view in town to sit and eat it at. The other hotel is great if you want to party but be warned it is big and loud and a bit of a walk away from all the main attractions.

What we ate…

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We ate SO well in Hvar, I absolutely loved all the food. But that is mainly down to discovering Fig Cafe bar. It isn’t all veggie so my meat addicted other half loved it, but there are so many brilliant veggie options. We went there a couple of times and I had the vegetarian curry with cucumber raita with grilled flatbread which was hands down the best meal of the whole holiday and also honey roasted root vegetables with hummus which was delicious. They’re famous for their pulled pork too and the boyfriend highly recommended it. It is tucked down a little alley and takes some finding but don’t give up, the staff are wonderful.

We also ate at Black Pepper which was yummy and in a lovely setting but you did need to book in advance. And Dalmatino too, which I’d also recommend. Just plan where you’re going to eat a little in advance as it’s a small island and places get booked up.

What we did…

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We swam in the sea at the beach in front of the Hotel Amfora, we learnt to paddle board, we island hopped and found ourselves on an exclusive resort, we climbed the hill and explored the castle, we drank a million cocktails. We honestly had the best time.

First up we hired our own self-drive boat and hopped from island to island. All of Hvar’s neighbours are so different but so magical in their own way. This was my favourite day, it was so chilled and sunny, and I was even brave enough to drive the boat myself! We ended up spending a lot of the day sunbathing on Milna as it was the quietest and most beautiful of the islands. The next day the weather wasn’t so good so we grabbed our umbrellas and set off to climb the hill to Hvar Fortress. I’m not the biggest history buff but it was fascinating – you could climb inside the old prison cells and even if that bored you the view from the top is stunning. On our third day we caved in for a beach day in the sunshine. We hired paddle boards from a lovely man who gave us one for free! I was worried my balance wouldn’t be good enough but after a slow start we made it all the way round the coast to the harbour and back again. I really want to go paddle boarding again, it’s much easier than it looks!

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Overall we just had the best time in Hvar, I would recommend a trip to anyone!

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